Most of the time, people who visit China (and Taiwan) talk about the famous stinky tofu dish.  As much as I admit to love the dish, that conversation is reserved for another time.  Today, I’m happy to show you what I am sure is a much more widely appreciated dish: 香豆腐, or “fragrant” tofu, a Yangshuo specialty.

These carts are all over the city, and though a few are scattered about during the day, they come out in droves at night, especially on the main 西路, West Street, strip of bars and restaurants.  A grid of soft tofu sits on a flat griddle, bubbling with the addition of a little oil and spices.  The longer the tofu sits on the griddle (hours, even) the more brown the edges become- and firmer, but still not crisp.  On cold days like the ones we experienced, the griddle steams extra vigorously and the soft pieces of tofu bubble ever-so-slightly.

For 5rmb- about 80cents- an order you get two small squares of piping-hot tofu, topped with green onions, Yangshuo chili, and assorted pickled vegetables.  Perfect after a long day on the river.